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The Physics of Surfing

Kyle Jackson: Physics 250
The quantity of motion of a moving body, measured as a product of its mass and velocity.
The act of diving your board's nose into the water and missing the wave.
The barrel of the wave when it is breaking and has a "hollow" area
The size and speed of incoming sets of waves.
The ancient Hawaiian sport of riding waves for fun
The ability to do work; there are two common types - Kinetic and Potential
A tether attached to most surfboards in order for the rider to easily recover it.
The resistance that one surface or object encounters when moving over another.
The force that attracts a body toward the center of the earth, or toward any other physical body having mass.
A long body of water curling into an arched form and breaking on the shore.
A force applied over a certain radius that tends to cause rotation.
Balancing both feet over the front edge of the surfboard while in motion.
A measure of the steepness of a line
Thin protective layer of rubber to keep surfers warm in cold climates
The rider shifting their weight and energy causing a change in direction.
The ability or tendency to float in water or air
Refers to forces acting opposite to the relative motion of any object moving with respect to a surrounding fluid.
Objects in motion tend to stay in motion and objects at rest tend to stay at rest.
A formulation for application to the deck of a surfboard to keep the rider from slipping off.